A Guide to Gemstone Shapes and Jewelry Settings

Many of our pieces are offered with stones in different shapes, and the shape you choose changes the whole character of a ring, pendant or pair of earrings. This short guide to gemstone shapes explains the classic cuts we work with, how each one is set, and what to consider when choosing between them. The chart below shows the shapes side by side.

Cabochons: The Natural Choice for Lapis

Opaque stones such as lapis lazuli, malachite and turquoise are not faceted like diamonds. Instead they are cut en cabochon: shaped and polished with a smooth surface, either domed or flat, that shows off color and natural veining rather than sparkle. Our artisans cut each cabochon by hand to fit its setting precisely, which is why the outline of the stone matters so much.

The Classic Shapes

Oval

The most popular and versatile shape. An oval flatters the hand by visually lengthening the fingers and suits both everyday and formal pieces. See our Sterling Silver and Oval Lapis Cabochon Ring for a timeless example.

Round

Balanced and symmetrical, a round stone feels classic and calm. It works especially well in stud earrings, simple pendants and smaller rings.

Square

Clean and architectural, the square has a modern, slightly bold look. It is a favorite for signet rings and cufflinks.

Rectangle

Elongated rectangles give a sleek, elegant line and show a generous expanse of stone, ideal for displaying the gold flecks of pyrite in fine lapis.

Pear or Teardrop

Rounded at one end and pointed at the other, the pear shape is graceful and feminine. It shines in hanging earrings and pendants, where its point naturally leads the eye downward.

Heart

A romantic shape that needs no explanation, perfect for gifts and anniversaries. Explore our Heart Jewelry Collection for pendants, earrings and rings.

Marquise

A long, slender shape pointed at both ends. It has a vintage elegance and makes a striking statement, as in our Thick Band Marquise Stone Sterling Silver Ring.

Freeform

Some designs follow the stone rather than a template. Freeform pieces have organic, irregular outlines that highlight a particularly beautiful section of color or pattern, so each is truly one of a kind.

How the Stones Are Set

Bezel Setting

A thin wall of metal surrounds the cabochon and is gently pressed over its edge. Bezels protect the stone, hold it securely and frame it with a clean line of silver or gold. Most of our cabochon rings use this setting.

Inlay

Inlay is a specialty of our Santiago workshop. Here the stone is cut and fitted into hollows in the metal so that stone and metal sit flush, forming one smooth surface. Inlay allows intricate patterns, several stones side by side and very durable pieces. You can read more about it in our post on our design techniques.

Choosing the Right Shape

• For everyday wear, rounded shapes such as oval and round have no points to catch on clothing.
• For a slimming effect on the hand, choose elongated shapes like oval, marquise or a slim rectangle.
• For a bold, modern look, square and rectangle stones in a heavy frame make a confident statement.
• For a sentimental gift, the heart is hard to beat.

Whichever you choose, our pieces are made in 950 sterling silver, which contains more pure silver than standard 925 sterling, or in 18K and 14K gold, and our rings can be made in any size.

Find Your Shape

Each stone we cut is natural, so even two rings of the same shape will never be identical. We hope this guide helps you find the outline that suits your style. Browse our full collection of lapis lazuli rings to see every shape in its setting.